Just another day in PARADISE - Manila Times

http://www.defence.lk/new.asp?fname=20110403_04

Just another day in PARADISE - Manila Times

(By: GLENN GALE) www.defence.lk">

THE dawn chorus of a duo of neighborhood roosters announces that morning has broken over the blissful seaside strip of Negombo along Sri Lanka's west coast. As the first rays of the sun attempt to peek into the spacious and well-appointed room at Jetwing Sea-seemingly signaling that it's time to rise and shine-I surface from beneath the cozy comfort of fluffy duvet and draw back the blinds, swing open the door to the terrace, take in the exhilarating vista of golden sand, azure ocean and powder-blue sky and inhale the thought that this is just another day in paradise. Admittedly, paradise is a word too easily bandied around these days on the global tourism circuit. But in its application to this jewel of an island hanging like a sultry teardrop in the Indian Ocean it matches the description in every sense of the word. Indeed, early explorers were in such bewilderment over Sri Lanka's abundance of natural beauty-from flaxen beaches lapped enticingly by pristine blue waters to carpets of green foliage that make up the breathtakingly picturesque (and invigorating) tea country nestled in the country's highlands-that they coined the word "Serendib" (meaning, a fortunate discovery by accident) to describe the island. In fact, "Serendipity" and "a land like no other" were two of the befitting epithets attached to the country long before it made its debut on the map as Ceylon (in colonial days when the Portuguese, Dutch and British delivered their calling cards) and later, in the years following independence, as Sri Lanka. The names alone bear witness to its richness and beauty, and the intensity of the affection it evokes in everyone who has ever visited it. Chairman of Sri Lanka Tourism Dr. Nalaka Godahewa and his super efficient Colombo based team (take a bow Sarangi Thilakasena-Assistant Director for International Media) take great pains to point out that the negative vibes dispensed by the long-drawn war in the north with the Tamil Tigers terrorist outfit (now destined to the dustbin of history after its humiliating defeat in 2009) are a thing of the past. Sri Lanka has bounced back spectacularly on the global tourism map with annual tourist arrivals fast heading for the million mark, with a projected aim of 2.5 million tourist arrivals within the next five years. Toward achieving this target the Sri Lankan Government has declared the year 2011, as "Visit Sri Lanka" year. Blessed with coastlines that play home to the rain-sweeping monsoon weather at different times of the year, Sri Lanka affords the sun-seeking traveler all the year round sunshine. But whether it's the feisty resorts of southern locales such as Bentota, Hikkaduwa and Tangalle, or the seductive stretches of beach on Negombo in the west (shared happily by local fishermen and visiting tourists alike) or even the cool climes of Nuwara Eliya where the colonial British created a home away from home (with these parts more redolent of Scotland than any place associated with it in the orient)-this is a tropical idyll that would leave one hopelessly spoiled for choice. Apart from the signature beaches and salubrious highlands, add to the heady brew an eventful history that is 2500 years old, the healing powers of Ayurveda medicine, the thrills of sports and adventure, the colorful festivals, the diversity of culture, the lush nature and wild life and you have a recipe for the complete tourist odyssey. As for any lingering concerns about the erstwhile "business in the north," these are easily dispelled by people of every ethnicity (whether Sinhalese, Tamil or Arab Muslim) who are among the most friendly and hospitable on earth-and whose gleaming smiles which are activated at the merest sighting of a foreign face are worth a thousand words of friendly greeting. If location . . . location . . . location is the rallying cry for the perfect holiday experience then The Marina in Bentota-which serves as an entry point to the south coast-fits the bill. Perched between an expansive working river and the sea it provides the perfect setting on one side for leisurely boat rides checking out the neighborhood and every form of water sport (in the cause of duty, even we risked life and limb to go jet-skiing) and robust beach activity on the other. The homely 12-room resort is operated by Lanka Sports Reizen (LSR), a top travel operator that pioneered leading edge water sports in Sri Lanka. LSR, which is a one-stop venue for every travel need, is spearheaded by Tilak Weerasinghe and Dirk Grigson who are dedicated stalwarts of the country's tourism scene. The south coast (where the sun blazes down from October to March) also plays host to the two Sri Lankan properties of the uber-luxury international chain Aman-and Amangalla in Galle and Amanwella farther down the coast in Tangalle stay exquisitely true to the brand's upmarket credentials. Even though arriving at Amanwella in the middle of an unseasonal tropical downpour, the place still oozing seductive chic. Distributed around the lapping ocean and its own stretch of private beach, the resort winds its languid way around mango and tamarind trees, coconut palms, olive vines and a garden decked with flora of gorgeous hues. Dotted around are the villas designed for secluded (so it should come as no surprise that the word Aman is Sanskrit for "peace") comfort. In contrast, sitting imperially at the gateway to the 17th-century Galle Fort (headquarters of the early Dutch invaders and more recently home to the famous Galle Literary Festival) Amangalla occupies a sturdy white four-story pile that has been host to the comings and goings in that neck of the wood since 1864. Given a fabulous make-over since Aman took it over in the late 1990s, the entire place pays dutiful homage to its quaint history and British colonial lineage. In fact a British visitor put it best when he noted in the guest book that "even the most vehement critics of the excesses of Empire will go wobbly at the knees as they pull up a planter's chair on the airy veranda and order a mango Bellini." Definitely worth mentioning in any dispatch is The Fortress, another luxurious establishment enjoying a prime beach site between Galle and Tangalle which has its rooms set around a scenic courtyard with the seafront beckoning at every turn. The mod-cons in the rooms here are so high-tech that it will take a day or two of unscripted fun before you can work it all out and give suitable justice to the six-head shower! Over on the west coast one name is synonymous with hospitality excellence-and Negombo is its heartland. We are talking Jetwing-arguably the pre-eminent hospitality brand in Sri Lanka with a coast-to-coast presence in the varied tourist experiences that this island nation serves up. It operates a trio of top rated luxury hotels in Negombo-Jetwing Blue, Jetwing Beach and Jetwing Sea-which have been tastefully refurbished recently to the tune of several million dollars. All three share the same stretch of sedative beach, but each provides its own distinct brand of lively charm-with the wicked marmalade sunset that appears on cue thrown in for free! We were billeted at Jetwing Sea where the general idea is that guests unwind at their own pace, with affable General Manager Rookamani Fernando and her friendly staff ensuring that all the rudiments are in place to ensure this is unfailingly so. Such were the levels of indulgence that guests are subjected to that if star-rating is a subjective thing then we would definitely classify it as a six-star resort! The verandah caf‚, which has the sprawling beach right on its doorstep, provides a vantage spot to partake of breakfast while observing fishermen parking a catamaran just across the way, and the waves lazily licking the shoreline beyond. And the sight of GM Rookamani attired in sky-blue sari gliding gracefully between tables greeting guests with her attentive smile is the perfect pick-me-up for any tired soul who has jetted in from stress-ridden Europe, or wherever. Across the road from the three beach establishments is Jetwing Ayurvedic Pavilions where, as the name would suggest, Sri Lanka's famously soothing native treatment is within wishing distance. By the way, on a stretch of coast where almost every other entity showcases "Ayurvedic" offerings, at the Ayurvedic Pavilions you are guaranteed the real thing at the hands of well trained and experienced therapists, and in an ambience that is absolute nirvana. Elsewhere on the island we jostled our way merrily through maddening traffic along the winding road that leads to the hill capital of Kandy. A city with a proud and majestic history all of its own, here is where the famous annual August festival (or Esala Perahera in the local vernacular) takes place, when every night for ten days a dazzling three-hour long extravaganza constituting over a hundred elephants coupled with scores upon scores of colorfully dressed native dancers, fire eaters, acrobats and drummers take to the streets in an operatic spectacle that is part theatre and part fiesta. The festival celebrates the annual exposition of the scared relic of Lord Buddha's tooth that is kept in the Temple of the Tooth which, wrapped around a scenic lake, is one of Kandy's-and indeed the country's-premier landmarks. Tea is easily Sri Lanka's best known export to the world, and tea is what comes to most people's minds (and tantalizes their taste buds) when they think of Sri Lanka-though in a quaint touch it is still branded worldwide under the colonial name of Ceylon. Sri Lanka's tea country is contained primarily in the cool climes of the hills and valleys of what is known locally as the "up country" region. The mountainous tea country provides for a contrasting holiday experience from the sun-kissed beaches and cultural gems of the interior such as the fifth-century Sigiriya rock fortress cum palace (with its bewitching semi-nude frescoes) and the ancient ruins of Anuradhapura (where the sight of Buddhist priests both young and old in their yellow robes adds rich color to the local canvas) and Pollonaruwa-all treasured wonders from the past set in a cultural triangle where five of the seven World Heritage Sites are located. One needs to set aside at least two days to properly check out the varied fare on offer in the cultural triangle. And there could be no better base than the Ulagalla Resort which is located a short drive outside the Buddhist spiritual capital of Anuradhapura. Set amidst 68 verdant and unspoiled acres constituting part jungle and part rice fields, the sprawling resort consists of 17 luxurious villas affording every material comfort-and each with individual infinity pool (which, we discovered, also serves as a watering hole for friendly squirrels) And checking in is a disarming ritual involving lighting a brass oil lamp and clanging a bell! But Sri Lanka Tourism is not just sitting back on its natural and cultural laurels. Aware that today's consumer is conscious of the environmental and social effects of tourism, it has also put into place projects designed to raise Sri Lanka's profile as a destination offering socially and environmentally responsible tourism. Explains Chairman Dr. Godahewa: "Now that every part of the country is open for business, we hope to attract greater numbers of socially and environmentally aware tourists to Sri Lanka, and to enhance their holiday experience while here." Local communities are the focus of the new initiative and a key objective is building community support in the development of tourism. To this end, the plan is to link communities with tourism activities to ensure that the benefits from tourism actually contribute toward sustainable community development. All in all, Sri Lanka has something for every holiday seeker, whether discerning traveler, adventure buff or just dedicated backpacker. And Sri Lanka Tourism Chairman Godahewa proclaiming his country as the touristic "Wonder of Asia." is no idle boast. Courtesy: The Manila Times